Wine of the week

Amorodos 2022, Atrium Vitis 

ABV: 13%

Variety: Brancellao

€26.00 from Atrium Vitis

Orders and enquiries via WhatsApp: Ana Gadín +34 610 440 692

Brancellao has been blowing cobwebs since the time of Ptolemy. Adrian McManus drinks a fine example from Ribeira Sacra and finds out that the Strawberry Alarm Clock is more than just a psychedelic rock outfit from Haight-Ashbury.

Ribeira Sacra winery Atrium Vitis is headed up by Ana Gadín and Javier Mendoza, whom I first met at a tasting event in A Coruña in June 2015. Prior to the pandemic I visited a couple of times, thoroughly enjoying their company and, of course, their superbly crafted wines.

While familiar with their Quinta de Touceda and Silius cuvées, it was a chance offering from sommelier Juan at A Coruña’s premier wine-spot, Jaleo, that pointed me in the direction of Amorodos 2022.

Meaning strawberry in Galician, the name evokes not only the wild strawberries and other frutillas silvestres that grow in profusion in their vineyards but also the blast of red berries that is typical of Brancellao.

Fermentation takes place in an open oak foudre with manual punch downs, followed by racking to a stainless steel vat. After that it is left to repose for nine months before bottling. The nose is quite intense, with the aforementioned red berries, but also some herbal action, like fennel, bay leaf and pepper. On the palate it’s intense with a silky, elegant mouthfeel and a long, persistent finish.

Recommended serving is slightly chilled (10-12º) and it’s that freshness, with the perfectly integrated acidity, that makes it an ideal partner for a wide array of dishes such as sardine, mackerel and tuna, through to hearty seafood rice ‘soups’ like arroz caldoso de marisco. If you’re planning to visit Galicia any time soon, a visit to Atrium Vitis is highly recommended.