Why natural cork still matters: An interview with Xácobe Almeida of Corchos Almeida in Ribadavia, Ourense

Adrian McManus meets Xácobe Almeida, the Galician cork craftsman keeping tradition alive one stopper at a time

One of the nicest things about attending the Emoción dos Viños winemaker rendezvous this year was meeting Xácobe Almeida of Corchos Almeida, who very kindly gave me a lift from Ourense to the event, held this year at the Monasterio de San Clodio in Leiro.

As we got talking in the car, it became clear that natural wine corks and the tradition surrounding them were very close to his heart. We both agreed that it was a part of the wine industry that receives little attention and definitely needed some timely recognition and love.

I have to say I can’t abide screwtop closures, even though several Australian clients of mine, some of them winemakers, strongly insist that they have the science on their side and that the ritual ‘faff’ of using a corkscrew is a fetish that people would be better off ditching. I think I can speak for my fellow Spanish Wine Collective scribes and proudly say that when it comes to abandoning tradition, this group stands firm—we’re not for turning.

Could you start by telling us how you came to work in the cork industry and what drew you to it?

Let’s say it was something that came my way rather than me going out looking for it.

I’m part of the third generation of owners of Corchos Almeida. My grandfather founded the factory in 1966, and my father and four of his brothers carried on with the business, and now it’s our turn to uphold the family legacy and carry the company forward into the future.

How would you describe the ethos and identity of Corchos Almeida, and what sets you apart in today’s market?

I believe what sets us apart mainly comes down to two things. Firstly, as I mentioned earlier, we’re a family business stretching back nearly 60 years with a reputation in the market as a trusted and reliable manufacturer and supplier. Secondly, we have a unique regional identity: we are the only company in the sector based in Galicia, in one of Spain’s oldest wine producing regions, Ribeiro. In today’s world, where great emphasis is placed on locally sourced products, we believe Corchos Almeida offers the perfect solution.

Spain has a long history of cork production — how important is that tradition to your business today?

While it’s true that most Spanish firms use bark sourced from Portugal, it’s undeniable that certain regions in Spain have always maintained high quality standards in cork production. Catalonia and Extremadura have always been the benchmark producers in this respect, but Galicia also has a long history of cork harvesting. In fact, at the moment, albeit on a limited scale, we sell batches of Galician cork to clients that request it out of commitment to the local area and, of course, to the conservation of our ancient woodlands.

Cork is often held up as a perfect example of sustainably produced organic material. How do you ensure your operations protect both the cork forests and local communities?

When we talk about the production of natural cork, we’re referring to a green and sustainable type of industry throughout the whole process, from the tree to the cork itself. We remove the bark from the tree without damaging it, always respecting its natural growth cycle. Once it arrives at our facility, we don’t subject it to any treatment other than boiling the cork planchas (sheets) and cutting them. Furthermore, when it comes to Galician cork, we work both with communal forest associations and local seasonal workers who supply us with the raw material.

What are the biggest challenges the cork industry faces right now, both in Spain and globally?

Without a shadow of doubt, the most serious threat to the sector continues to be the presence of screw caps and synthetic corks. In the future, packaging formats other than traditional bottling will clearly pose a challenge to us as well. We can already see in major cities that wine on tap is a growing trend that’s here to stay. These developing circumstances will require us to specialise in the production of high-quality corks for an increasingly demanding clientele — the consumers of natural cork in the years to come.

Technology has transformed manufacturing in recent years. How is it changing cork production and quality control?

All cork producers have to innovate year upon year to keep up with growing demand. With the cork industry’s strong influence on the Portuguese economy, various research and development initiatives have emerged in recent years to provide products with greater reliability. For example, we now use machines that can detect TCA in corks, as well as seal-testing equipment.

Beyond wine closures, are there any innovative or unexpected uses for cork that interest you?

In Portugal there’s a well-developed alternative cork industry that’s exploring different uses for cork and coming up with all kinds of solutions in the process — from clothing through to construction materials and decorative items.

How do you see climate change affecting cork forests and future production?

Cork trees can tolerate extreme conditions very well. They thrive in Mediterranean climates and do not require large amounts of water. However, the ongoing severe drought across southern Europe is slowing the growth of the raw bark used to produce corks, as the trees experience increased hydric stress.

What do you find most rewarding about leading a company so closely tied to nature and tradition?

Running Corchos Almeida presents a dual challenge. On the one hand, we must strive to uphold our family legacy, but above all, we face the challenge of maintaining a strong commitment to our region. As I mentioned earlier, we are a local company that relies on the prosperity of its surroundings in order to grow and evolve. We need all the wineries in the area to thrive so we can thrive as well.

Finally, if you had to describe cork in just one word, what would it be, and why?

I would say LIFE. Life, because cork has always played, and will continue to play, a very important role in my family’s story. And also, because it takes a cork to keep a great wine alive in the bottle.