A sherry showcase: Juan Piñero’s wines meet modern Andalusian cuisine at Augurio in Seville
Bill Bolloten enjoys a ‘cena y maridaje’ to remember in Seville
Many years ago in Seville, I was invited to a first communion celebration. During the festivities, I struck up a conversation with a relative of a friend who mentioned, quite matter-of-factly, that he drank only sherry wines with his meals, always carefully matched to whatever dish he was eating.
At the time, I was surprised. Spain produces so many exceptional table wines, and sherry seemed like an unconventional choice. But over the years, I’ve come to understand this preference. Sherry is one of the world’s most versatile partners at the table. Its range of styles and distinctive qualities can elevate a wide variety of dishes in ways few other wines can.
That versatility was on display earlier this week during a wonderful cena y maridaje (a dinner with wine pairings) at Augurio, a rising star in Seville’s culinary scene, known for its inventive use of local ingredients and a thoughtfully curated wine list.
The evening featured six wines from Bodegas Juan Piñero, a distinguished producer making wines in both Sanlúcar de Barramedia and Jerez de la Frontera. Augurio’s team—Carmen Granados, who oversees the front of house, and chef Lorena Cabezón—crafted a bespoke tasting menu designed to complement each wine.
Although founder Juan Piñero sadly passed away in 2021 during the Covid pandemic, his legacy lives on. The bodega remains in family hands and is now led by his children, who continue to honour his vision and dedication.
The late Juan Piñero, founder of Bodegas Juan Piñero
The evening kicked off with the Maruja Manzanilla Pasada En Rama, served with a “00” anchovy on a crispbread spread with a blue cheese butter. (“00” anchovies are an extra-large, premium Cantabrian anchovy.)
From the sacristía of the bodega, this en rama Manzanilla with an average age of 10 to 12 years, is always a compelling expression of extended biological ageing under flor. It opened with pungent and complex aromas of sea spray, almonds and olive brine. The palate was dry and powerful with a backbone of salinity. The ageing has brought weight and depth to the palate, yet it remains fresh and vibrant.
Next up was the distinctive Camborio Fino En Rama, made from Palomino Fino grown on the renowned pagos (vineyard sites) of Añina and Macharnudo in Jerez de la Frontera. With an average age of 9 to 10 years, this mature Fino offered intense, persistent saline notes that made it a perfect pairing for a chicken ensaladilla. The wine’s briny depth cut through the richness of the dish, while its freshness lifted and enhanced the creamy texture.
With around 40 years of age, the Oloroso VORS (Very Old Rare Sherry) offered a truly immersive sensory experience. Deep mahogany in colour, it opened with bold, layered aromas of chestnut, antique wood, varnish, leather and cigar box. On the palate, it revealed notes of caramelised sugar, warm spice and a long, dry, bracingly saline finish.
It proved to be the perfect match for my favourite dish of the night: slow-cooked Iberian presa served with a yakiniku sauce and chestnut foam.
A mini foie gras doughnut dusted with beetroot powder was accompanied by the 12-year-old Palo Cortado Great Duke. With a rich amber hue, it offered complex aromatics of toasted hazelnuts, toffee and dried citrus peel. It was silky and fluid with remarkable length.
A dessert of grilled peach, sweet miso and hazelnut praline ice cream was paired with the exceptional Piñero Cream, aged for over 20 years and certified VOS (Very Old Sherry). This blend of Oloroso and Pedro Ximénez revealed a rich, expressive nose of raisins, dried figs, roasted nuts, cinammon and molasses. On the palate, it was silky and elegant, with just a gentle hint of sweetness balanced by the wine’s underlying dry structure and oxidative complexity.
After an evening of outstanding wines and thoughtful pairings, it’s clear that sherry isn’t just part of Andalusian tradition; it’s a living, evolving and relevant companion to the region’s contemporary cuisine. And at Augurio, with the wines of Juan Piñero, it was easy to see why it merits a place at the modern table.