Looking back at ‘23 with Bill
The collective looking back in Toro
To kick off 2024, each of the Collective will look back at their favourite wines of last year and share them with you. Next up is Andalucia’s very own Bill Bolloten!
Bodegas Juan Piñero
Marajua Manzanilla Pasada En Rama (DO Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda)
I drank many notable, even extraordinary, Finos and Manzanillas this year at Seville’s sherry temple, Taberna Manolo Cateca. This unique bar started life as a small wine despacho in the 1920s. I usually leave it up to Manuel to choose something for me, and he hit it out of the park with this stunning Manzanilla Pasada. A classic Sanlúcar Manzanilla with a very long biological ageing (15-20 years) and now almost on the cusp of a second life as an Amontillado. It has a rich golden colour and a nose showing hay, iodine, herbs and light honey. The palate is complex and ever-evolving; there is salinity but also sweetness, volume and roundness. A beautifully polished and elegant wine.
Bodegas Luis Pérez
La Escribana Vino de Pasto Macharnudo 2022 (Vino de España)
From an old school Manzanilla to a stellar vino de pasto from Willy Pérez. Producers in the Marco de Jerez are returning to the future with a terroir focus on the different albariza soils, local climates and grape varieties. This unfortified single varietal Palomino, from a vineyard in the legendary Macharnudo Cru, is fermented at low temperature in stainless steel tanks before ageing for 12 months under a velo de flor in very old, used sherry butts. There’s a lot going on here: a lively citrus and floral nose, a deep, complex, savoury palate with fresh acidity, salinity and a mineral stoniness. You won’t be disappointed if you start your journey into the new wave of unfortified sherry wines right here.
