Poley Palo Cortado en Rama 25 Años, Bodegas Toro Albalá
Bill Bolloten catches a Miles Davis mood in Toro Albalá’s 25-year-old Palo Cortado
Poley Palo Cortado en Rama 25 Años, Bodegas Toro Albalá
DO: Montilla-Moriles
Variety: 100% Pedro Ximénez
ABV: 20%
€34.80 from Toro Albalá (50 CL)
€38.50 from Decántalo (50 CL)
Very old generoso styles are not something I drink every day. Heck, nor should they be. A VORS from the Marco de Jerez or one of Montilla-Moriles' long-aged wines is the kind of thing to be reserved for special moments rather than everyday drinking. That sense of rarity is part of the experience.
The Poley range is Toro Albala's collection of solera-aged expressions of the classic styles of Montilla-Moriles. The Palo Cortado 25 Años sits in the middle of that range, alongside a 10-year-old Fino, a 10-year-old Cream, two 15-year-old wines—a Fino Pasado and an Oloroso—and a 35-year-old Amontillado.
I received this bottle as a member of Club Contubernio, which released this exclusive edition of just 1,080 bottles. Club Contubernio is a Sherry wine subscription club based in Sanlúcar de Barrameda and run out of Taberna Der Guerrita.
Like Miles Davis, who repeatedly changed direction when others expected him to repeat himself, Palo Cortado follows its own path. Born in the same way as a Fino, the botas lose their veil of flor earlier than expected and embark on a journey of oxidative ageing.
Bottled en rama, with minimal filtration, it arrives in the glass carrying everything it has gathered over some 25 years of ageing in the solera.
The nose opens with orange peel, caramel and black pepper. There are also hints of cloves, old-wood furniture, varnish and roasted nuts.
On the palate it’s bone dry, with a thread of vibrant acidity running through it. The finish is persistent, with a saline edge that lingers.
I didn't rush this wine. I enjoyed small glasses over a couple of weeks, eking it out sip by sip. Toro Albalá suggests pairing it with rabo de toro, roast lamb, game or foie. But for me, it's really a vino de meditación, to be sipped slowly and thoughtfully. One to enjoy, perhaps, the way Miles played "In a Silent Way."