Wine of the week
It’s not all beaches and cycling: Andrés Castelló finds the soul of Mallorca in a glass of Ses Hereves
Ses Hereves 2017, Vins Toni Gelabert
DO Pla i Lllevant
ABV: 13.5%
Varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah
€30.02 from Vinos y Yo
On the flat, tranquil plain of Son Fangos, Toni Gelabert has been tending his five hectares of espatllera (trellised) vines since 1979. His approach is summed up in three words: sempre poc a poc—always little by little. With his family and friends by his side, he harvests by hand, uses organic fertilizers and follows biodynamic rhythms for cultivation, pruning, racking and bottling. His wines are a direct reflection of that care: honest, balanced and deeply tied to the land.
Mallorca may be best known for its beaches and cycling routes, but it has a long winemaking heritage dating back to Roman times and is dotted with vineyards planted with both native and French varieties. The island’s wine landscape includes multiple recognized regions, with two Denominaciones de Origen: Binissalem and Pla i Llevant.
Pla i Llevant, where Gelabert works, encompasses the eastern and central plains of Mallorca and is characterized by fertile soils rich in clay and limestone, derived from marl and dolomite, often tinged red by iron oxide. The Mediterranean climate and these free-draining soils encourage deep root penetration, producing wines that are elegant and restrained. Native grapes such as Callet, Manto Negre and Premsal thrive here alongside international varieties, creating aromatic wines with earthiness and dark fruit.
Ses Hereves is one of those wines, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah—French grapes that have found a new identity on this side of the Mediterranean. The grapes are fermented in stainless steel, then aged 12–15 months in a mix of carefully chosen French and American oak barrels. The wood here never dominates; instead, it becomes part of the conversation, integrated with the fruit to create something harmonious.
In the glass, Ses Hereves shows a beautiful ruby colour with garnet-hued edges. It isn’t inky or opaque, but luminous and transparent - a clarity that hints at the delicacy to come. The nose is lifted and aromatic, opening with balsamic notes before unfolding into layers of fresh and dried rose petals, violets and tart strawberries. There’s also a touch of volatile acidity that gives brightness and lift. A couple of swirls of the glass reveal clove, leather and the earthiness of forest floor. The oak is well integrated; it doesn’t mask the fruit but rather is woven into a single harmonious whole.
On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied with a line of bright acidity that keeps it lively. Tannins are silky and smooth, offering grip without heaviness. Flavours of tobacco and eucalyptus thread through dark fruit, leading to a long, elegant finish.
I drank this bottle for over two days. On the first day, it was a true showstopper—aromatic, vibrant and commanding attention. On the second day, it had softened into something delicate yet still inviting, yet still inviting, a testament to low-intervention winemaking, with age already showing gracefully.
Ses Hereves is elegant and poised, a wine that seems made for an early autumn day. I couldn’t help imagining it alongside a bowl of fabada, where its balance of fruit, earth and spice would shine. Despite it being summer, I ended up making one the next day—and it was delicious.